Equatorial Vagrancies

a few weeks in tsunami-ravaged aceh proved to be a wonderful cultural experience. the heart of the province is nearly all lush jungle, and its inhabitants are kind in nature and quite inquisitive. many smiling faces were interested in my life, and were not overbearing as many others have been. the gorgeous scenery was complimented with a visit to urban banda aceh during ramadon. the streets were full of food at 6:42pm when the bell tolled in the mosque. i couldn't help walking into a local eatery and sitting with acehnese for dinner. it was a moment that traveling makes possible. that evening the sky was also a dark shade of blue, a hue common in the depths of the sea.

Evening Prayer

my time on pulau weh, just north of banda aceh, was a bit disappointing due to low visibility under the sea, but nonetheless, the seaside bungalows were a treat. the cheeky macaques that jumped on my roof were a complimentary offering from Mama Mia, the gentile owner of the bungalows.

jungle time came in halves - the first being a trek to scalding hot springs and the second an hour with tame orangutans in the Bukit Lawang Rehabilitation Center.

my guide on the trek was not too enthusiastic, although he was addicted to grass. we were unable to see wild orangutans, or at least nothing more than orange fuzz in the treetops. the camping spot by the hot springs, however, was ideal for relaxing, smoking and pondering what action to take if a sumatran tiger were to come for a session.

the tame orangutans came around for a bite to eat just under the treetops, in a scenic spot devoid of cages. the mother and child were quite amusing, walking between tourists and even posing for a profile picture. after walking down the hill we passed a few empty cages, which is a good sign for the rehabilitation center. the hostels along the river in Bukit Lawang were nearly empty, as it seemed most places were in Sumatra.

HOT SPRINGS

a dubious encounter with a taxi driver in medan led me to a bus terminal, and then to lake toba, the numero uno tourist destination in northern sumatra. the main town was full of hostels, eateries, book shops and hundreds of people who called me "friend" from their stores. surprisingly, i wasn't itching to leave after a few days. the batak people, followers of Jesus Christ, had some rocking concerts at night and the empty town made for eerie, yet intriguing walks. also, the island in the middle of the lake is the size of singapore, and the views were sublime from my balcony.

a couple days in berastagi reminded my of india, sans live animals defecating in the street. i can't admit i miss that delightful sight. the town offered little, but an active volcano was within walking distance of the stench-riddled markets. perhaps the highlight of the town was the $.40 pancake - large enough for two adult males and packed with peanuts, bananas and gooey chocolate. it was breakfast and dinner for three consecutive days.

Volcano Crater Rock Signatures

Kids.....

at the tail-end of my malaysian trip i visited bako national park, a seaside jungle only accessible by boat. the allure grows..... the proboscis monkeys and macaques were visible near the beach, and a few heavenly sunsets gave me the chance to contemplate life on mars, or maybe that was just bowie on the ipod. the national park was actually run for avid travelers, unlike the natural amusement parks up in sabah. i hope to return to sarawak for a more in-depth investigation, but bako and malaysian independence day were a great start.

Merdeka Day Boat Race -> Go Yellow Team!!!

Proboscis Monkey Outline

whose prose knows
where the story goes?